Hiroshima Food Guide: Beyond Okonomiyaki to Local Secrets

You know about the okonomiyaki. Everyone does. It's the food poster child for Hiroshima. But if you think that's all there is, you're missing out on a deeper, richer culinary story. Hiroshima's food scene is shaped by its coastline, its rivers, and a resilient spirit. It's about briny oysters harvested from the sacred waters of Miyajima, delicate river fish, and late-night izakaya bites in narrow alleys. This guide is for the traveler who wants to move beyond the postcard and eat like someone who knows the place.

Okonomiyaki, Deconstructed: More Than a Pancake

Calling it a "pancake" does it a disservice. It's a savory, layered masterpiece cooked on a hot teppan right in front of you. The Hiroshima method is distinct: they don't mix the batter and filling. Instead, it's built in strata—a thin crepe, a mountain of shredded cabbage (seriously, a mountain), your choice of protein (pork, squid, octopus, cheese), then yakisoba or udon noodles, and finally an egg. It's topped with a sweet Worcestershire-style sauce, mayo, seaweed, and bonito flakes that dance in the heat.

The experience is half the fun. You sit at a counter wrapped around the griddle, watching chefs maneuver multiple spatulas with quiet precision. The sizzle, the smell, the anticipation—it's dinner and a show.

A common mistake first-timers make? Trying to eat it the second it hits your plate. Let it sit for a minute on the hot teppan built into your counter. The bottom layer of noodles gets delightfully crispy. Use the small metal spatula (hera) to cut and scoop. Don't be dainty.

Miyajima: An Oyster Lover's Heaven

If okonomiyaki is Hiroshima's soul food, oysters are its luxury. The waters around Miyajima (Itsukushima Island) produce some of Japan's most celebrated oysters, plump and rich with a clean, mineral finish. The season peaks from October to March, but you'll find them year-round.

On Miyajima, oysters aren't just an ingredient; they're a theme. You can have them raw on the half-shell (namegaki), deep-fried in breadcrumbs (kaki furai), steamed (kaki mushi), baked with butter (kaki butter-yaki), or even in a hearty rice porridge (kaki zosui). Walking down Omotesando Street, the main approach to the shrine, you'll pass multiple stalls grilling oysters over open shells. The smell is irresistible.

Don't overlook the smaller, family-run grills. The quality is uniformly high. Grab a shell, stand on the street, and slurp it down. That's the Miyajima experience.

Beyond the Big Two: Hiroshima's Other Must-Try Dishes

Okonomiyaki and oysters are the headliners, but the supporting cast is stellar. Here’s what else should be on your list.

Hiroshima-style Tsukemen (Dipping Noodles)

Less famous than the Tokyo version, but a local favorite. You get a separate bowl of cold, thick, chewy noodles and a small pot of intensely rich, hot dipping broth—often tonkotsu (pork bone) or seafood-based. The ritual is to dip a small bundle of noodles, slurp, and repeat. The broth reduces and concentrates as you eat. Ramen-tei chains are a reliable bet, but look for small shops with a salaryman crowd at lunch.

Anago (Conger Eel)

While Kyoto has unagi (freshwater eel), Hiroshima is known for anago, saltwater conger eel. It's softer, more delicate, and often less sweet. The classic preparation is anago meshi—tender, grilled eel fillets served over rice in a lacquer box. Ueno, an old-school restaurant near Miyajima's ferry port, is the legendary spot for this. It's a splurge, but a memorable one.

Hiroshima-style Ramen

It exists! Typically a soy sauce (shoyu) or salt (shio) based broth, lighter than the heavy tonkotsu of Kyushu, with thin, straight noodles. Toppings often include wontons and chashu pork. It's a cleaner, simpler bowl perfect for a quick lunch.

Lemon Everything

Hiroshima Prefecture is Japan's top lemon producer. This citrus finds its way into everything: lemon sours (a popular highball), salad dressings, desserts, and even as a garnish for oysters. Try a slice of lemon pie from a local bakery—it's a thing here.

Izakaya Hopping in Nagarekawa

After dark, the Nagarekawa area comes alive. This is where you go for small plates, local sake, and beer. Order tsukune (chicken meatballs), kushiyaki (grilled skewers), and hiyashi chuka (chilled ramen salad) in the summer. Don't be shy to point at what other people are eating. The Hiroshima Prefecture Tourism website highlights the area's vibrant dining scene.

A Practical Food-Focused Itinerary

How to pack this all in? Here’s a loose framework.

One Day Blitz:
Lunch: Okonomiyaki at Nagataya near the Peace Park.
Afternoon Snack: Grilled oysters from a street stall on Miyajima.
Dinner: Izakaya crawl in Nagarekawa. Start with one place, then follow your nose.

Two Day Deep Dive:
Day 1: Hiroshima City. Lunch at Okonomi-mura (try two different stalls). Afternoon visit to Peace Park. Dinner: Hiroshima-style tsukemen or ramen.
Day 2: Miyajima. Breakfast/Lunch: Anago meshi at Ueno. Afternoon: Oyster feast at Kakiya and street snacks. Dinner back in the city: Casual yakitori.

Three Day Indulgence:
Follow the two-day plan. On Day 3, explore a local market like Hiroshima Central Wholesale Market (not as touristy as Tsukiji) for an ultra-fresh sushi breakfast. Then hunt down a specialty lemon dessert cafe. For your final dinner, book a table at a higher-end restaurant specializing in local seafood kaiseki (multi-course).

Your Food Questions, Answered

What's the real difference between Hiroshima-style and Osaka-style okonomiyaki?

The biggest difference is in the construction. Osaka-style mixes all ingredients into a batter before cooking. Hiroshima-style is layered: a thin crepe base, a huge pile of shredded cabbage, your chosen toppings, then noodles (soba or udon), and finally the egg. The sauce is also slightly different, with Hiroshima-style often using a sweeter, thicker Worcestershire-based sauce. It's a more architectural dish.

I'm vegetarian. Can I find good options in Hiroshima?

Yes, but you need to be specific. Standard okonomiyaki often contains dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi) in the sauce and as a topping, and the broth for noodles is usually fish-based. At dedicated okonomiyaki restaurants like Nagataya near the Peace Park, you can explicitly order a "vegetarian okonomiyaki" and they'll prepare it with a special sauce and skip the bonito. Always say "bejitarian" and confirm no fish flakes (katsuobushi) or meat.

What's a realistic food budget per day for Hiroshima?

You can eat very well on a moderate budget. A hearty okonomiyaki lunch costs ¥1,000-¥1,500. A dozen fresh oysters at Kakiya on Miyajima is about ¥2,000. A bowl of local Hiroshima tsukemen is ¥800-¥1,200. For a casual dinner with a drink at an izakaya, plan for ¥3,000-¥4,000 per person. So, a comfortable daily food budget allowing for one splurge meal is around ¥7,000-¥9,000 per person.

Is it difficult to find restaurants that accept credit cards?

More difficult than in Tokyo or Osaka, especially at the smaller, older, and more authentic places. Okonomi-mura stalls, street food vendors, and many izakayas are cash-only. Larger, more modern restaurants like Nagataya and chain establishments will take cards. My rule of thumb: always carry at least ¥5,000-¥10,000 in cash when you're out exploring for food. It saves the awkward moment at the register.

Where's the best area to stay for food lovers in Hiroshima?

Stay near Hondori Street or the Nagarekawa area. Hondori is a covered shopping arcade with many casual eateries and okonomiyaki stalls, perfect for easy exploration. Nagarekawa, just north of Hondori, is the nightlife and izakaya district, buzzing after dark with tiny bars and restaurants. Both areas are central, walkable to the Peace Park and tram lines to Miyajima, putting you right in the heart of the food action.

Hiroshima's food story is one of layers, much like its signature dish. It's a city that respects tradition but isn't afraid to let local ingredients shine. Start with the okonomiyaki, but make sure you leave room for everything else. Your taste buds will thank you.